If you're looking for a North American getaway, Montréal could easily fit the bill. Where New York has become the destination for hen parties and school trips, Canada's second city manages to balance blue collar grit with a fabulous cultural life and a genuine gay-friendliness that's hard to beat (don't forget that Canada was one of the first countries to support same-sex marriage). Easy to get to and get around, Montréal offers something unique and authentic for the queer jet set.

There's something else which makes Montréal a special destination, and that is its Québécois heritage, partially a result of a "Quiet Revolution" in the 1960s. French is the dominant language in Montréal, and you would do well to join in if you can, although English is also widely spoken. French influences are everywhere, from the architecture to the local cuisine, to the influence of the Catholic Church, and even to the way that the city is governed. But Québécois culture is more than just French, it's result of a fusion of French and Canadian life, and it can come across as intriguing, bemusing, and all points inbetween, to outsiders.

But first, a word of warning about the climate. Winters are extremely cold and snowy, which is great news if you're looking for a ski holiday with added city break, but not so wonderful if icy pavements make you nervous. Summers can be unbearably humid, which means that spring and autumn are your best bets. Montréal people are hardy types, but that didn't stop them from building Underground City (aka RÉSO), a network of subterranean shopping malls and tunnels which connect much of the Downtown area and protect pedestrians from the worst of the weather.

Getting to Pierre Trudeau airport couldn't be simpler now that a number of budget carriers have started the 6-7 hour run to the city from the UK. Look out for some excellent deals and take advantage of an exchange rate that practically demands a British invasion. Moreover, Montréal is a world city, which means that there are plenty of places to stay. If you can afford it, high-end Downtown hotels don't skimp on the luxe, though mid-range business hotels are more of a gamble. Look out for deals and do your homework before you commit. On the other hand, there are some superb gay-friendly B&Bs available, probably a much better option for budget travellers. In addition, getting around couldn't be simpler, there is a cheap and developed Metro, cabs and buses are inexpensive, and the city is very walkable. In the summer do as the locals do and get yourself a bicycle, there are many beautiful cycle paths and parks to explore.

What to do in Montréal depends on your own interests. Wholesome travellers will no doubt enjoy pottering around Old Montréal, the earliest colonial neighbourhood in the city, which boasts beautiful French architecture and charming streets. The city is home to many parks, Parc Jeanne Drapeau, situated on a pair of artificial islands, is a great place to chill, and there are hiking trails up "the mountain," as Mount Royal, the big hill in the centre of town, is known. Cultural life is always active, thanks to the presence of six major universities, so take time to visit a museum or two, there are over 30 of them ranging from arts to history, cinema, and historic houses to the city's celebrated botanical garden and 1976 summer Olympic site.

If playing Pollyanna is not your thing, head for Rue Ste Cathérine, the main commercial artery Downtown and your destination for big store shopping. Though the neighbourhoods out in the Plateau, such as Mile End, are also a good bet for more offbeat and quirky, small shops, and café bars such as the lovely lesbian-owned Le Cagibi. East of Downtown is Montréal's gay village, accessible via the rainbow-coloured Métro Beaudry. Here you'll find the usual bars, shops and cafés, and a thriving club scene, including some eye-popping strip clubs.

Finally, if you really want to do some damage to yourself, scarf down a plate or two of Poutine, available at any diner. This is Québécois comfort food at it's most artery-busting: chips covered in gravy and cheese curds (a bit like the lumpy bits of cottage cheese), with added smoked meat and other treats, if you wish. Local people love this dish, though it's somewhat of an acquired taste. Finish it off with a bag of doughnuts and a large coffee from Tim Hortons, Canada's finest fast food joint, and you're good to go.

Need more information? Get The Rough Guide to Montréal by Arabella Bowen and John Watson. Find out all the latest gay travel information by ordering the brand new 2008 Spartacus International Gay Guide. Get it online and save some money to put towards the other Bruno Gmunder guides - Hotel and Restaurant Guide and Sauna Guide.