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Travel : European Guides : France
French Riviera: A Gay Guide
13 May 2008
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Playground of the super rich and famous, the French Riviera oozes glamour and sophistication. So break out your Gucci manbag as we take a sashay along the Mediterranean coast.

Anyone who ever told you that size isn’t everything was, of course, lying through their teeth and nowhere is more obvious than on the glittering Côte d'Azur.

From St Tropez to Nice, the coast is dotted with high class resorts and private beach clubs overflowing with elegant socialites and A-listers. This is where the well-heeled park their super yachts in winter and come out to play in summer, but there are some gay hotspots tucked away - if you know where to look.


Saint-Tropez
Set at the end of a beautiful peninsula overlooking the exquisite waters of the Golfe de Saint-Tropez, this small Provencal fishing village was first discovered by artists and writers who came to enjoy the town’s charm and atmosphere. However, it wasn’t until 1955 when Roger Vadim’s And God Created Women was filmed here that the town’s fame rocketed and two legends were born, Brigitte Bardot and the town of St Tropez.

The town is still a major epicentre for jet-set lavishness - luxury yachts line the harbour to bursting point and the surrounding hills are filled with private estates whose owners are whisked above the crowds by the comfort of helicopter. All of the main French and Italian designers have expensive boutiques here, testament to the awesome spending power that is very much on show. You have been warned.

A glimpse of the St Tropez that first attracted the tourists can still be seen at Place aux Herbes where fishermen and farmers sell their fresh produce and around the Place des Lices, where the locals still play boules under the shade of plane trees on the square and there are some excellent restaurants to sit and relax at.

The famous cafes of the old port provide some of the best people watching experiences anywhere in the world and the winding streets are crammed with swanky boutiques, art galleries, antiques dealers and restaurants and in July and August, people!

By night the gay hot spots aren’t plentiful, but they are busy. Chez Maggi is a good place to start - if you can get to the bar, which takes some doing on most nights and is dam near impossible the nights after George Michael has been seen in town. If you can’t face the fight to the bar cruise over to Le Bar ` Vin or Chez Joseph for a pre-club drink before hitting L’Esquinade near Place de la Marie..

By day the action takes place on the beautiful sweeping golden sandy bay of Pampelonne, a short drive from the town centre. Most of the beaches here are privately owned with bars, sun beds and restaurants although there are also public stretches, a nudist area in the centre and Coco beach and our very own gay section where you can soak up the sunshine and the eye candy.

If you want to try your hand at star spotting try Nikki Beach, Club 55 or the legendary Voile Rouge. Bring cash and plenty of it, your flexible friend is no use to you here.

Cannes
A short train ride along the coast from St Tropez is the equally glamorous town of Cannes, again a major stopping route on the yacht charter route along the coast - the old and new ports are well worth a visit for the boats moored in both. Life here revolves around the pristine beach scene centred on the sandy bay. Whether you choose a pricey lunch at one of the glamorous private beach clubs or a sandwich on the public beaches in between, this is the place to be seen.

Each year in May the Cannes Film Festival rolls into town and the scene is set for the world’s most alluring inhabitants to hit La Croisette to kick start another sensational movie season in arguably the swankiest stretch of seaside on the planet. The only rock that you’ll find on sale here is from Cartier and haute couture is most definitely de rigueur even - or should we say especially - when dipping those perfectly pedicured feet into the ocean!

Cultural attractions in the town are limited, but the ornate 19th century mansion of La Malmaison, with its temporary exhibits of modern and contemporary art, and the artworks of famous Riviera painters from the 19th and 20th centuries at Musee de la Castre, above the town’s 12th century ramparts, are worth a visit.

When the sun goes down the bar scene in Cannes is limited, but extremely classy. Zanzibar on the Rue Felixe Faure draws a mixed crowd of men and women, both gay and straight, while nearby Vogue on Rue de Suquet is where people drift too after a well chilled beer or two. Le Hype Bar on Rue Jean Jaures near to the train station is also a popular bar with a restaurant and shows every Sunday.

To the east of Cannes on the road to Golfe Juan there is a nudist beach and cruising area tucked between the railway line and the coast. This is very popular in the summer months and can be accessed from the service area on the main road between the two towns or by a somewhat lengthy walk along the beach from Golfe Juan train station along the beach continuing over the rocks at the end.

Antibes Juan les Pins
Antibes and Juan Les Pins offers little for the gay tourist although the town is one of the best known resorts on this stretch of coastline. The picturesque walled old town is home to the excellent Modern Art Museum, the History and Archeology Museum and the museum of Traditional Crafts and Local Culture as well as the small but charming market and many meandering streets and pretty squares.

Port Vauban, the town’s marina, is the largest in Europe and the perfect place to see how the other half lives with a stroll down Millionaires Quay. If your idea of a good time isn’t ogling somebody else’s ostentatious gin palace then a walk to la Garoupe lighthouse tucked away on the beautiful Cap d'Antibes gives some stunning views of Old Antibes, Fort Carre and on a clear day, the mountains behind.

Juan Les Pins is renowned for its nightlife and is a magnate for people looking to party the night away. It is also host to the yearly Jazz in Juan festival each July which is one of the best jazz festivals in Europe.


Cagnes sur Mer
A few kilometres to the east of Antibes is the small medieval village of Cagnes sur Mer, which can be easily spotted from the train to Nice, perching on the top of a small hill just inland from the train line. From Haut de Cagnes (the old city at the top) the walk through the medieval quarter’s tiny streets, alleys, houses and restaurants is authentic Provence and a great place to explore.

The picturesque fishing port is a great place to end a stroll around the town, which should also include its beautiful Renoir Museum which nestles amongst gnarled and ancient olive trees on the estate he spent the last years of his life in.


Nice
Nice is the largest city in Provence, the fifth largest in France and, perhaps to its privileged location, it’s become the second most visited city for gay tourists in the country. Despite the popularity of the town, it still maintains an intimate and friendly atmosphere.

With over 300 days of sunshine each year many of the pleasures of Nice are best enjoyed outside, although the city does have a number of excellent cultural attractions too. Ask for a brochure at one of the tourist offices which are particularly helpful in Nice. There is one at the Airport (terminal 1), one on 5 Promenade des Anglais and one at the main train station.

The Matisse Museum is situated on the hill of Cimiez, not far from the Franciscan monastery with its Italianate gardens, the ruins of the Hotel Regina (where Matisse lived and Queen Victoria stayed during her visits) and the Gallo-Roman ruins including arena, amphitheatre, thermal baths and paleochristian basilica. It’s a wonderful museum and is not to be missed.

The Musee des Arts Asiatiques is housed in Japanese architect Kenzo Tange’s minimalist surroundings and the Musee d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain also boasts an impressive collection that is worth a visit.

The old quarter of the town is home to the ‘Château’ which is the situated on the rocky promontory that rises between the Old Town and Nice’s port.  The castle that was once situated on the site is no longer here, however there are spectacular views of the city and the coast line all the way along to St Tropez  - on a clear day - plus shady walks through the park on the summit.

Below the castle lies the old town of the city which has a distinctly Italian feel with plenty of cafes, bars and restaurants to relax in and which holds the lively flower market each morning. It is in the lanes surrounding the market place that  some of the city’s 35 or so gay venues can be found, although there are a varied assortment of gay venues throughout the city.

A good place to start you night out would be the restaurant Cote Marais, on Rue du Pontin, the bars Le Couloir and Chez Michel, on Alberti ,or Le Six bar, on Rue Raoul Bosio. which are all located in the old town close to Place Massena.

Gay Beaches
Nice has the greatest concentration of gay beaches on the Cote D’Azur (!) so it’s the ideal place to top up your tan and watch the world go by. The places to head for are:

Coco Beach which is the place to be in town! Follow the port around away from the centre of town to boulevard Franck Pilatte where you cross the gardens and find the steps down to Coco Beach.

Jetée du Phare. This is att the End of the Docks des Etats Unis, just before the port, take the lane next to the Parking area.

Saint Jean Cap Ferrat. Almost at the end of the Cap, take the lighthouse road and park down the road then walk towards the lighthouse.

Saint Laurent d’Eze beach – the official gay beach! Coming from Nice on your way towards Monaco turn off at the Eze exit and you’ll easily find the beach.

Want more? Then check out our guide to Nice.

Find out all the latest gay travel information by ordering the brand new 2008 Spartacus International Gay Guide. Get it online and save some money to put towards the other Bruno Gmunder guides - Hotel and Restaurant Guide and Sauna Guide.

Author: Darren Cooper
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